You left one heck of a legacy, Dick. Thanks for your contributions!
Bob: sound does not accelerate. It could change velocity depending on the medium disturbed... :)
Horsepower -- whatever. It makes good power.
Now get serious about folks who want to take the car to the track AND drive it hard. That's what the ACR should be about.
Let's leave the K car technology behind and put DRY SUMP in this car already. Before. Doing. Anything. Else.
Then focus...
I hate to be one to crap here, but have you put some serious thought into cooling an extra 150HP? The stock water passages cast into the cover are anemic at best. If you plan to track and are making over 550 crank HP, it will become an issue for you.
Maybe you're able to use a Gen 3 or 4...
Let's see...
Corvette #1 - not exciting enough.
Corvette #2 - not exciting enough.
Corvette #3 - Enjoyed it but it put me to sleep...and in turn, I put it in the weeds...on its roof :)
Corvette #4 - VERY easy to drive fast and boy did I eat tires. I was rotating every 1,000 and didn't get more...
Men who use the engine and downshifting gears to slow a car down, ugh. Total poser drivers. They just think it sounds cool, but it lets the rest of us know that you can't drive a manual properly.
Check the rear e-brake cables. It's possible they were tied back and the tie snapped and now the metal cable shield is rubbing the inside of your wheel.
Good luck figuring out your issue!
I agree with this -- the total area under the dyno curve is likely to be more on a NA car with the same WHP. Also, heat soak is less of a problem with NA cars.
Two other things I want to mention (that I haven't already) is:
1. Don't forget you need to have your crank snout pinned if you go...
You have a very rare car indeed! It's very likely the power rating of 383 is Metric HP. The math is: 735.5/745.7 * HP rating. For a 1999 Viper, that would be 443. I'm not sure where the 383 comes from and honestly I've never heard that figure used for a Viper engine.
Jon B at PartsRack has...
A good question to ask is always what year is your car and do you plan any HP upgrades. For gen 1, replace with a Walbro 255 so you can support additional HP later. It's not an easy job to tackle and best left to an experienced Viper shop. For Gen 2s the answer is usually replace with stock.
Hey BlackOut - Viper Specialties is another excellent shop. You can't go wrong.
Now, since I've been through this myself, let me tell you that just buying the kit is no way to run 10PSI. I'm running 8PSI and on days where the ambient was over about 88 degrees I could NOT keep the car cool...
I tried one -- briefly... Before it died. Then, when I switched to an SCT, was able to make all the fan adjustments directly to the ECU.
You already have an SCT, use that.
Yep, again, talk to Todd at A&C. Their team installs a lot of Viper Paxtons every year. They get favorable prices from the manufacturer in addition to having a huge catalog of in-house custom-developed tunes to get your car dialed in as quickly and safely as possible. Not only will the cost...
It's likely you would want to run meth injection at that boost level (with a proper fuel system). Talk to Todd at A&C Performance -- he has a lot of experience with Paxton cars and NA cars with upwards of 650 RWHP.
Good luck with your build!
You really need to talk to Todd at A&C Performance. He has done these installs (I have one -- has worked perfectly since day one).
951.696.0500
Good luck!
So your plan is to buy a paxton and skimp on Headers/exhaust? How about fuel system? There are a lot of factors to consider when you start making over 600RWHP. You can't afford to "go cheap" if you want the setup to last. Call a reputable tuner and let them tell you what a 700RWHP setup...
Wanted,
You can't make a more persuasive argument by simply INCREASING YOUR FONT SIZE. Stop it. You're making yourself out to be a fool. Let others reply and do them the courtesy of replying in kind and guess what -- it will be a civil discussion. Wow.
If you're referring to the setup GM had used for many years (where a 50Hz signal was generated when the ohm reading on the key was correct), the answer would be, "no." You will probably find an AEM to be the simplest way to get sorted out if doing a swap into a project car.
Good luck and don't...
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