pattymelt3605
Enthusiast
Re: Last Body Parts in Paint....
Looks great! I cant wait to see the finished product!
Looks great! I cant wait to see the finished product!
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Paint is finally going on......
- Thread starter Jay Herbert
- Start date
VIPER BAZ UK
Enthusiast
Re: Last Body Parts in Paint....
Hay did i start somthing or what with these Smilie's
Hay did i start somthing or what with these Smilie's
Bolt
Viper Owner
Re: Last Body Parts in Paint....
Looks like your still making progress Jay. Looking good!
Bolt
Looks like your still making progress Jay. Looking good!
Bolt
ViperArry
Enthusiast
Re: Last Body Parts in Paint....
Jay,
How is the Brazen Serpent Viper doing? I'm curious.......
Jay,
How is the Brazen Serpent Viper doing? I'm curious.......
Jay Herbert
Enthusiast
Re: Last Body Parts in Paint....
Waiting for the weather to warm up enough for the last two major parts to be painted, the front and rear fascia's. I have to finish stripping and repairing the side sills and send them to Ed as well, but they should pretty straight forward to paint.
Waiting for the weather to warm up enough for the last two major parts to be painted, the front and rear fascia's. I have to finish stripping and repairing the side sills and send them to Ed as well, but they should pretty straight forward to paint.
Jay Herbert
Enthusiast
Well, It's the home stretch, weather is a A-OK, and the fascia's are painted! With luck, I'll go pick up the Brazen Serpant in a few weekends (put new brakes on the trailer last weekend, and new tires on the "tow-truck 
).....
Ed filled in the holes for the lens since I plan on installing brake duct hose:
Front Fascia:
Rear Fascia:
Hopefully pics af fully assembled ('cept for side sills) will follow soon.
).....Ed filled in the holes for the lens since I plan on installing brake duct hose:
Front Fascia:
Rear Fascia:
Hopefully pics af fully assembled ('cept for side sills) will follow soon.
mike & juli
Enthusiast
WHAT an awesome color!!! Love that front fascia! Looks Great---would love to see final pictures. ~juli~
Jeff Lemke
Enthusiast
This car is going to look great!
Janni
Enthusiast
Color is AWESOME. Congrats on getting toward completion of the build.
Might want to rethink the brake duct hose..... fog light holes blow directly at the tire. It's a low pressure area, and to plumb the hose - you end up with about 3 right angle bends in an 18" area.....
Might want to rethink the brake duct hose..... fog light holes blow directly at the tire. It's a low pressure area, and to plumb the hose - you end up with about 3 right angle bends in an 18" area.....
Jay Herbert
Enthusiast
Janni
Thanks for the info. I mainly did not want the driving lights. Maybe I'll just get the screened round black "light replacement covers" from Snake Oyl to fill in the holes, and not bother with the plumbing. I looked around on their site last night for them, but did not find them..... I did not look real hard though.
Rear fascia is going on as I type, hopefully pics of the Brazen Serpant by the end of the weekend
After that, she comes home, and only the side sills and minor electrical (wiring up the doors and the power mirrors) remain.
Jay Herbert
Enthusiast
Two more buffings and a glazing to go:
Naca duct:
Louvre's:
Hood Down:
Hood Up (note how much cleaner the look with no seams around the naca duct or louvres:
Naca duct:
Louvre's:
Hood Down:
Hood Up (note how much cleaner the look with no seams around the naca duct or louvres:
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kcobean
Enthusiast
Wow....that is all.
Jay Herbert
Enthusiast
Only the sills left.... but it's together.
"Shine"
"Shine"
malcoll
Enthusiast
Could you have installed the Gen 2 doors without changing the windshiled surround? What did you do about the latches on the door jamb?
HP
Enthusiast
Better give all them paint layers time to harden up good - before you put wax to it. Only an Arky would drive a Viper w/o sills.
Double Venom
Enthusiast
-Just For the record;
Dupont "Chroma Premiar" 2K Primer 324303-Three coats- dry sanded/blocked with 120- grit dry, wet sanded with 600 W/D
"Chroma Prem" Dupont sealer -medium gray #42440S- One coat
Wet sanded with 600 W/D after 24 hrs dry time.
Front and rear Fascia- one coat of "Bulldoog" adhesive for plastic material,
two coats of Duponts waterborne primer surfacer # 210S
Wet sanded with 600 W/D after 24 hrs.
Two coats of stripe color- wet sanded (yes it is a highly metallic color) with 800 W/D then one more light coat of stripe color applied and allowed to dry for 24 hrs before the stripe masking was applied.
Two coats of color applied- Vehicle was inspected from top to bottom, any visible flaws at this point are sanded out appropriately and touched up with either an
"airbrush", a mini HVLP gun, or a standard sized HVLP gun.
All masking paper is removed, edges checked on the stipes- any stripe masking errors are taken care of at this time.
Finale' all most: Two coats of clear are applied and allowed to dry at least 24 hours.
The car is then block-sanded using 600 W/D once again, stripes and all.
Final; inspection is given and the car is washed with a liquid soap (Dial, Love, Joy, etc.).
A final coat of clear is now applied.
At least two full days or more if possible is allowed for the car to dry.
Now is the time when the "planing" starts with the razor blade. There goes at least a 1/2 coat of clear.)
Once the "planing" is fiinished the car is then wet sanded once again with 600- then 800 W/D and a week long buffing party starts.
The finished product is as shown and comes in well under the recommended thickness by any paint manufacturer.
Wax anytime after July 4,2007- But be it known I am not a great lover of wax for street driven cars-Glaze or polish only please.
Just so you know...........
Ed/DV Combs
Dupont "Chroma Premiar" 2K Primer 324303-Three coats- dry sanded/blocked with 120- grit dry, wet sanded with 600 W/D
"Chroma Prem" Dupont sealer -medium gray #42440S- One coat
Wet sanded with 600 W/D after 24 hrs dry time.
Front and rear Fascia- one coat of "Bulldoog" adhesive for plastic material,
two coats of Duponts waterborne primer surfacer # 210S
Wet sanded with 600 W/D after 24 hrs.
Two coats of stripe color- wet sanded (yes it is a highly metallic color) with 800 W/D then one more light coat of stripe color applied and allowed to dry for 24 hrs before the stripe masking was applied.
Two coats of color applied- Vehicle was inspected from top to bottom, any visible flaws at this point are sanded out appropriately and touched up with either an
"airbrush", a mini HVLP gun, or a standard sized HVLP gun.
All masking paper is removed, edges checked on the stipes- any stripe masking errors are taken care of at this time.
Finale' all most: Two coats of clear are applied and allowed to dry at least 24 hours.
The car is then block-sanded using 600 W/D once again, stripes and all.
Final; inspection is given and the car is washed with a liquid soap (Dial, Love, Joy, etc.).
A final coat of clear is now applied.
At least two full days or more if possible is allowed for the car to dry.
Now is the time when the "planing" starts with the razor blade. There goes at least a 1/2 coat of clear.)
Once the "planing" is fiinished the car is then wet sanded once again with 600- then 800 W/D and a week long buffing party starts.
The finished product is as shown and comes in well under the recommended thickness by any paint manufacturer.
Wax anytime after July 4,2007- But be it known I am not a great lover of wax for street driven cars-Glaze or polish only please.
Just so you know...........
Ed/DV Combs
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Jay Herbert
Enthusiast
I have seen Gen II doors go on Gen I cars W/O using the Gen II windshield surround. Chris from Viper Car Parts in AZ did a car that way, the downside is that it takes a boatload of weatherstripping at the front edge and rear edges to halfway seal....... it ended up looking "added on" to me. It would be better to just buy a Gen II, way back when I bought this car, the price dif between Gen I and II RT/10 much larger than it is now.
Ed did not say he ran into any issues with the latches.
Changing the windshield surround ended up being a minor disaster, Ed had to completely redo the defroster ducting on the Gen II surround, and completely "cut and reform the dash" to get all to fit properly. Ed used all 30 + years of his skills to make it all work out. Anyone other than someone like Foose or Metal Crafters, and I'd bet it never would have been done right. Ed is a stickler for perfection, and has the skill to actually do things like this.
Ed Said "No wax for two years", only polish or glazing.....
Only an Arky would drive a Viper w/o sills.
Yep.... I'm now a true Arkansan
It should have side sills by the end of the summer, the goal is to have exposed pipes like the '92 show car.... OK, so they are a little "over-exposed" now, but hopefully, it will look something like this by the end of the summer:
Double Venom
Enthusiast
For what it is worth- the latches fit perfectly, after the frame was re-tweaked- darn these guys were good, I never had to adjust the door hinges, not the latches, male or female!
Windshield surround, now that was a different story, about five or six times I think.
Need a Viper surround replaced, rebuilt? Sure, no problem I could use my mortgage paid in full!
Windshield surround, now that was a different story, about five or six times I think.
Need a Viper surround replaced, rebuilt? Sure, no problem I could use my mortgage paid in full!
ViperJames
Enthusiast
Wow...real windows on the GEN 1......I am SOOOOOOO envious. I have toyed with getting rid of my car for so long because of this....Still today it is on my mind...
Double Venom
Enthusiast
ViperJames, just get your self a good set of doors, a hardtop (Optional) and one old and one new set of door weatherstrips and go at it. The best part about it is NOTHING is modified or changed except the weather stripping which can be easily changed back to OEM if needed someday.
malcoll
Enthusiast
Ed,
Sounds like you are indicating that Gen 2 doors on a Gen 1 can be a "bolt on" proposition. I have opined this for the years I have owned my Gen 1... but everyone says no way.
The only.. .and I do mean ONLY... thing I do not like about my 1996 RT is the lack of roll up windows.
If I could buy a set of Gen 2 doors and weatherstrips.... obviously a new sportcap pad is needed... and bolt on, wire up and glue in weatherstrip... was all that was at hand.. I am ALL OVER IT.
So Ed... if you can clarify... is it that much of a bolt on proposition?? You've "been there done that".. tell us if you really think it could be that "easy"!
Thank you in advance,
Lance
Sounds like you are indicating that Gen 2 doors on a Gen 1 can be a "bolt on" proposition. I have opined this for the years I have owned my Gen 1... but everyone says no way.
The only.. .and I do mean ONLY... thing I do not like about my 1996 RT is the lack of roll up windows.
If I could buy a set of Gen 2 doors and weatherstrips.... obviously a new sportcap pad is needed... and bolt on, wire up and glue in weatherstrip... was all that was at hand.. I am ALL OVER IT.
So Ed... if you can clarify... is it that much of a bolt on proposition?? You've "been there done that".. tell us if you really think it could be that "easy"!
Thank you in advance,
Lance
malcoll
Enthusiast
For what it is worth- the latches fit perfectly, after the frame was re-tweaked- darn these guys were good, I never had to adjust the door hinges, not the latches, male or female!
Windshield surround, now that was a different story, about five or six times I think.
Need a Viper surround replaced, rebuilt? Sure, no problem I could use my mortgage paid in full!
Did you use the original Gen 1 door latch "strikers".. or did you have to install from a Gen 2?
I do like the Orange and silver. That was one combination I was thinking of but I went with the Orange and white. Great looking car.
Double Venom
Enthusiast
Maicol, etc,
I surely didn't mean to sound glib if you will. I have no idea where the "latch info" came from but I assure you I never touched Jays latches, male or female. I pulled frames for over 30 years before Jays small job. I used the best guy I could find, even if he was 150 miles away-well worth it. The factory would have been jealous! I only used a small handfull of shims on the front fascia alone-no where else. In other words his Gen II doors fit perfect and pulling the frame had nothing to do with the swap. ( I only covered this because of the e-mails I havereceived.)
Jay bought two Gen II doors with the glass and motors already in place. That way I did not have to figure out that geometry. (I have hooked power to them and they do work perfectly!) If I didn't make myself clear you need to use two "sets" or four pieces of weather stripping for the doors. (two per side) When the Gen II door is installed you will see immediately what needs to be done. The Gen I door seal is used all around the back side or B post right up to probably about 6"s from the top front. This is where you can cut the front seal, give or take a couple of inches, then match the length to the Gen II seal for the front, use 3M- weatherstrip adhesive (part #051135) or the like to glue the seals together as one, put the new hand made seal in place and it's done.
If there is something else to this I don't know what it is??? The latches work excellent. The doors still open inside and out the way they were designed and I of course used OEM hinges.
With all the interest from Gen I to Gen II doors, installing, painting and sealing may be a business venture worth looking into
Ed/DV
PS. I think Jay is doing a complete "How to" on his car and I'm sure the doors will be covered.
I surely didn't mean to sound glib if you will. I have no idea where the "latch info" came from but I assure you I never touched Jays latches, male or female. I pulled frames for over 30 years before Jays small job. I used the best guy I could find, even if he was 150 miles away-well worth it. The factory would have been jealous! I only used a small handfull of shims on the front fascia alone-no where else. In other words his Gen II doors fit perfect and pulling the frame had nothing to do with the swap. ( I only covered this because of the e-mails I havereceived.)
Jay bought two Gen II doors with the glass and motors already in place. That way I did not have to figure out that geometry. (I have hooked power to them and they do work perfectly!) If I didn't make myself clear you need to use two "sets" or four pieces of weather stripping for the doors. (two per side) When the Gen II door is installed you will see immediately what needs to be done. The Gen I door seal is used all around the back side or B post right up to probably about 6"s from the top front. This is where you can cut the front seal, give or take a couple of inches, then match the length to the Gen II seal for the front, use 3M- weatherstrip adhesive (part #051135) or the like to glue the seals together as one, put the new hand made seal in place and it's done.
If there is something else to this I don't know what it is??? The latches work excellent. The doors still open inside and out the way they were designed and I of course used OEM hinges.
With all the interest from Gen I to Gen II doors, installing, painting and sealing may be a business venture worth looking into
Ed/DV
PS. I think Jay is doing a complete "How to" on his car and I'm sure the doors will be covered.
mike & juli
Enthusiast
Nooooo, say it ain't so ViperJames!!!
LOVE your car the way it is, even your setup with the hardtop you have and the way the hardtop comes down by your 'windows', you can't beat the look you have...tho I understand your wanting 'real' windows!! You have a 'one-of-a-kind' GORGEOUS Viper, never seen another with that color and setup. So glad to have met you and seeing your car, it's still my screen-saver!! ~juli~ViperJames
Enthusiast
Nooooo, say it ain't so ViperJames!!!
HAHAHA...Sorry to have hijacked this thread a bit....I love the car, just get thoughts about the windows...thats all...someone would really have to make me an offer i couldn't refuse to sell it...Thanks again for the support Juli!
mike & juli
Enthusiast
Anytime--and yeah, I guess we did kinda turn this thread around a bit!! Sorry bout that also! **NO amount of money would take that car from me if I had it**~~~~~juli
Jay Herbert
Enthusiast
Thanks,
The "Silver" is actually "Cashmere", sort of hard to explain, but it is a very heavy metallic color that has a beige tint to it. My wife the artist says it's a "complimentary color" to the orange, she picked the stripe color.
Here is "Cut and paste" from the first post in the thread:
Colors are Brazen Orange Metallic and Cashmere metallic for the stripes. Ed described the painting process as follows, "Sprayed the stripe color, thought it was going to look awful, sprayed the orange, still thought it was going to look awful, sprayed the clear.... holy [*****], this is the most beautiful thing I've ever painted." When he told me this, he followed up with "How did you choose these colors? Either you are really good, or really lucky". I had to laugh.
So far everyone who has seen the "Brazen Serpent" in person is floored. I can hardly wait for next weekend, I'm driving up Friday-Monday to trailer her home.
When she gets home I still have to finish the door and electric mirror wiring/switches, install the inner doors, and sort out the Gen III seats and the side sills..... then she'll be officially "Done".
