KNG SNKE
Enthusiast
Tape instead of wax. You CAN use wax, just a lot of cleaning in the end.
Going to the track with my GTS any advice?
- Thread starter Timnineside
- Start date
GTS Dean
Enthusiast
I ran them on my Viper and had one front and one rear with belt separation, running pretty much optimal alignment and pressures. They stick pretty good, but the belt package is JUNK, IMO. If anyone needs a spare 335-17 V-700 with +/- 50% tread, let me know.
Paul Hawker
Enthusiast
Another alternative, since you have 20" tires is to put on a fresh set of Michelin Pilot Super Sports. They stick better than BFG or Pilot sports. Wear is predicted to be great on the track, they wear well on the street (30,000 mile warranty if rotated) have good wet weather traction, run smooth and true.
This way you do can just drive to the track, have fun and drive home without needing to switch around tires.
Tires over 3 years old do not belong on a high speed roadcourse.
On Gen II's there is a significant issue with brakes running stock fluids. Under heavy braking, especially in warm weather, the fluid down by the rotors can boil. If you feel your pedal going soft, pull into the pits to let them cool down. Often you get just one warning, then on the next corner the brakes can go totally away.
Also watch your temp gauge. If you get up into the red, you will need to reduce your revs, and lug it a bit down the straights in a higher gear to blow off some temp. Racing in Gen II is as much about temperature control as driving lickety split!
Have fun at the track.
This way you do can just drive to the track, have fun and drive home without needing to switch around tires.
Tires over 3 years old do not belong on a high speed roadcourse.
On Gen II's there is a significant issue with brakes running stock fluids. Under heavy braking, especially in warm weather, the fluid down by the rotors can boil. If you feel your pedal going soft, pull into the pits to let them cool down. Often you get just one warning, then on the next corner the brakes can go totally away.
Also watch your temp gauge. If you get up into the red, you will need to reduce your revs, and lug it a bit down the straights in a higher gear to blow off some temp. Racing in Gen II is as much about temperature control as driving lickety split!
Have fun at the track.
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Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
Tap water has a higher boiling point. I know Motul is a sponsor and they may have some good products but their brake fluid is crap.
Whatever, if you want to get new, but 4 year old tires to race that are part of a "closeout". Yes, check Tire Rack again. They state the production timeline on these tires as well.
I've heard from at least half a dozen good sources including Jon B [who I called to order these tires] that these will not be made in viper sizes [I used 345's in the rear].
Side note: I also heard that a viper owner could be the reason for this. He sued Kumho after wrecking his Viper. Don't know if there is any truth to this.
AZTVR
Enthusiast
Specifically, commonly used is the blue painter's tape because it has lower stickiness than other tapes and comes off easily.
I have also met a Corvette guy at the track a couple of times that uses several layers of clear adhesive shelf liner vinyl from Walmart/Home Depot. Pretty cheap; but kinda redneck looking. (Not as high brow as blue tape, LOL! )
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Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
I'd like to hear more about that.
you DO need to make sure your power steering fluid isn't overfilled, it WILL spit out all over your hood if you don't take a little out. Yes, make sure the cap is on tight.
and make sure your brake fluid is ONLY up to the 'fill' line, NO more, because it will bleed out and affect your brake pedal.
Motul 600 or 660 is a GREAT brake fluid, that's the ONLY kind I use, suggested by Archer Racing and I trust their suggestions.
Viper4Christ
Enthusiast
An old school trick drag racers used when hitting the track with their street driven cars is to use some vaseline around the area's where rubber and brake dust form. At the end of the day just wipe it clean and no worries of smears or hourse of washing/scrubbing to get it clean. Obviously, buy the store brand since you're going to want a fair amount of coating around the bumper and lower side of the hood where it meets the wheel well.
As for driving tips, dont nail it out of a turn and make sure to keep your RPM's up to avoid bursts of the Vipers low end TQ when you put your foot in it.
At around 1:40 is when they have the in car clips.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjU0MyL10cg
Your sources are wrong. I bought a set last year that were one year old. That's 2....not 4. Perhaps they're no longer making them but the 4 year old claim simply isn't correct. Never had a problem with them but that doesn't prove they're good. Maybe you spoke with Jon B on a Monday morning or something......
Could it be possible they stopped making them in Viper sizes after you bought them last year? Could it be possible that I tried to buy them earlier this year and could not find them anywhere? The 4 year claim is from the TireRack site. They state "2007 production" and "closeout" on those tires. Why do you think that is?
Yes, it is also possible my sources are wrong. But, I know better to not call Jon on a Monday
Anyways...let us not side track Tim's thread anymore. I will leave this with a request to you to please PM me if you find new V700's in 305 front and 345 rear sizes. Thanks.
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
Interesting. If there is a lawsuit then the name of the paintiff should be public correct? So let's find out who it is.
Timnineside
Enthusiast
Even tho this did get off subject I am still soaking all this in!! Thanks for all the help, and the cool video!
I am doing everything everyone said. The track day is Aug 19th 2011.
I will keep everything posted, and taking video with my GoPro.
Thanks and all/more advice is great. From car prep to driving style technique. I did A LOT of SEARCH here before I did 1/4 miles runs and hit a 12 flat stock so reading up and self educating is great when the knowledge is all right here!
-Tim
I am doing everything everyone said. The track day is Aug 19th 2011.
I will keep everything posted, and taking video with my GoPro.
Thanks and all/more advice is great. From car prep to driving style technique. I did A LOT of SEARCH here before I did 1/4 miles runs and hit a 12 flat stock so reading up and self educating is great when the knowledge is all right here!
-Tim
Timnineside
Enthusiast
Can anyone let me know how much Brake fluid I will need once I drain the entire system? Also any recomendations for power steering fluid? How much there also?
Any tricks/tips to draining the brake system/power steering system?
Once agian love all the help people!
Anyone have a used set of 18's they are looking to come off? Not looking to spend a ton obviously. 275-335 or whatever for the fronts 305's etc.
Thanks again!
-Tim
Any tricks/tips to draining the brake system/power steering system?
Once agian love all the help people!
Anyone have a used set of 18's they are looking to come off? Not looking to spend a ton obviously. 275-335 or whatever for the fronts 305's etc.
Thanks again!
-Tim
Brake system doesn't take much. Bleed from furthest spot away from the master.....RR, then LR then RF then LF (at least I think that's the best order to bleed them in). I think a quart will do ya just fine.
I have a couple old R6 take offs....but you're pretty far away.
I have a couple old R6 take offs....but you're pretty far away.
SoCal Rebell
Enthusiast
Can anyone let me know how much Brake fluid I will need once I drain the entire system? Also any recomendations for power steering fluid? How much there also?
Any tricks/tips to draining the brake system/power steering system?
Once agian love all the help people!
Anyone have a used set of 18's they are looking to come off? Not looking to spend a ton obviously. 275-335 or whatever for the fronts 305's etc.
Thanks again!
-Tim
Tim, a liter can should be enough to flush out the brake system and for gods sake if you want the best don't use Motul, spring for the Castrol SRF brake fluid. I call John Purner from CCW Wheels and buy yourself a set of track wheels in the size you want at a good price. With 305s I'd go with a 18x11 or 18x12.
Any tricks/tips to draining the brake system/power steering system?
Once agian love all the help people!
Anyone have a used set of 18's they are looking to come off? Not looking to spend a ton obviously. 275-335 or whatever for the fronts 305's etc.
Thanks again!
-Tim
Tim, a liter can should be enough to flush out the brake system and for gods sake if you want the best don't use Motul, spring for the Castrol SRF brake fluid. I call John Purner from CCW Wheels and buy yourself a set of track wheels in the size you want at a good price. With 305s I'd go with a 18x11 or 18x12.
GTS Dean
Enthusiast
A Gen 1/2 brake system can be fully flushed with one pint of fluid. Until you've done it several times, it's better to plan on two pints.
Timnineside
Enthusiast
Timnineside
Enthusiast
MTGTS
Enthusiast
I have a set of 295/335 toyo 888's I'd sell for pretty cheap. I've moved to full Hoosier slicks
Timnineside
Enthusiast
Well I don't mind paying for shipping!!!! Or whatever for that matter!!! I can't NOT find any take off's around here.
I guess MTGTS how much do you want for your 888's? And how much life (estimate) is left on them???
I think shipping is usually about $20 per tire which is COOL with me. Can either one of you guys send some pics???
Thanks a lot I really appreciate the help, I would like to go with the better tires just for mounting and stuff but don't want to put a ton of cash into this deal!
[email protected]
-Tim
I guess MTGTS how much do you want for your 888's? And how much life (estimate) is left on them???
I think shipping is usually about $20 per tire which is COOL with me. Can either one of you guys send some pics???
Thanks a lot I really appreciate the help, I would like to go with the better tires just for mounting and stuff but don't want to put a ton of cash into this deal!
[email protected]
-Tim
MTGTS
Enthusiast
I'll send you some pics tommorrow sometime. I haven't looked @ them in awhile as they were my spare set
Timnineside
Enthusiast
Sounds good! Let me know how much $$$ for them shipped. I am going to be pretty busy tomorrow, but maybe Sat morning I will get around to them.
-Tim
Timnineside
Enthusiast
Okay thanks for the tire help guys, I am sure I will be getting that done ASAP.
Back on the the fluid situation though. Does anyone know exactly how much fluid for the full brake system? I will probably just pick up two 1/2 quarts (yeah a Quart)
Also and recomendations for the Power Steering fluid? Brand? how much will I need for that?
Thanks again!!!
Back on the the fluid situation though. Does anyone know exactly how much fluid for the full brake system? I will probably just pick up two 1/2 quarts (yeah a Quart)
Also and recomendations for the Power Steering fluid? Brand? how much will I need for that?
Thanks again!!!
GTS Dean
Enthusiast
Timnineside
Enthusiast
Nope didn't miss it. Just wondering where I can get this in pints???
Only seen it sold in 1/2 quarts. hahahaha. So 1 quart of brake fluid, and 1 quart of power steering! Got it!
viperdude118
Viper Owner
Aside from getting your car all ready to go around the track, the best thing you can do is to take an instructor with you if possible! I cannot believe 2 pages of this thread and no one has mentioned it. An instructor with viper experience would be best, they can teach you how the car will handle and what to expect and they will start you off slow so you can get comfortable, most of all, keep the car off the wall after turn 11!
