BOTTLEFED
Enthusiast
I know. I need to get my engine built so I can do the 2.8 conversion as well.
So the old Roe inlet just needs to be opened up a little? The flange is still the same or did you have to modify it to bolt on to the 2.8 unit?
Kenne Bell 2.8H Upgrade
- Thread starter EllowViper
- Start date
So the old Roe inlet just needs to be opened up a little? The flange is still the same or did you have to modify it to bolt on to the 2.8 unit?
Martin
Enthusiast
Hey Martin..you into dancing? Lots of "Disco front this and Disco rear that" in your sig....
In fact, just the opposite
When I built this Jeep, the goal was to improve on-street handling a little bit over stock, and improve off-road handling a ton. So, I installed much bigger swaybars front and rear along with poly bushings everywhere. That really tightened up the on-street handling, but it ruins off-road wheel articulation (which really makes the car dance and rock over the bumps and rocks - which can be pretty scary when you're right next to a cliff or trying not to high-center on something...). So, I installed a disconnectable kit on each swaybar (disco kits). Then, when I go offroad, I disconnect the swaybars and that keeps all four wheels on the ground almost all the time. That Jeep turned out to be a really fun performer - and an awesome daily driver.EllowViper
Enthusiast
Tim,
I thought at first the rear inlet was a straight swap...until I actually tried to bolt it down. The top three bolts holes matched perfectly. The side flanges "just" covered the blower inlet (probably would leak under vacuum since there was only about 1/16th of an inch of the flange sealing the inlet), and the bottom three bolts did not match due to the the fact that it looks like the 2.8 has a physically larger rear inlet. SO I had to extend the flange on each side and the bottom. Weld/fill-in the three bottom holes and redrill, cut out the top and bottom of the inlet and weld in some curved pieces that go from the 3" tubes to the modified flange. I did this so the airflow would match the physical design of the back of the blower. Even on the old 2.4 I discovered the rear inlet was not optimized for getting the max air into the blower. The square flange design actually cuts off airflow access to the outermost parts of the rotor lobes. How I modified mine allows unresricted airflow. It was a PITA to modify, but really had no other option. If a guy had some real machinery available, one could fabricate a really slick rear inlet. All I had was my little wire feed welder, some cut-off and grinding items, some scrap tubing, and a big head to scratch. You can see the "buldges" on the rear manifold that run from the left/right feed tubes to the flange. That's the area that was cut out and curved pieces welded in to match the flange design.
I thought at first the rear inlet was a straight swap...until I actually tried to bolt it down. The top three bolts holes matched perfectly. The side flanges "just" covered the blower inlet (probably would leak under vacuum since there was only about 1/16th of an inch of the flange sealing the inlet), and the bottom three bolts did not match due to the the fact that it looks like the 2.8 has a physically larger rear inlet. SO I had to extend the flange on each side and the bottom. Weld/fill-in the three bottom holes and redrill, cut out the top and bottom of the inlet and weld in some curved pieces that go from the 3" tubes to the modified flange. I did this so the airflow would match the physical design of the back of the blower. Even on the old 2.4 I discovered the rear inlet was not optimized for getting the max air into the blower. The square flange design actually cuts off airflow access to the outermost parts of the rotor lobes. How I modified mine allows unresricted airflow. It was a PITA to modify, but really had no other option. If a guy had some real machinery available, one could fabricate a really slick rear inlet. All I had was my little wire feed welder, some cut-off and grinding items, some scrap tubing, and a big head to scratch. You can see the "buldges" on the rear manifold that run from the left/right feed tubes to the flange. That's the area that was cut out and curved pieces welded in to match the flange design.
EllowViper
Enthusiast
Doing some tuning this evening. Noticed my bypass valve silicon 90' elbow was collapsed. Called Sean and I guess he is now selling a stainless steel replacement due to these things collapsing over the years. Oh well. I have a jury-rigged flex hose on it right now. Hope it holds through the weekend. Didn't realize the amount of vacuum that goes through that thing. Really stong. Anyways, back to tuning. A bit challenging getting it dialed in on the roads in the evening. LTFT are way out of wack so I'm currently up to 46% base injector offset from stock and my LTFTs are starting to come in. Takes time for the computer and all to catch up with closed loop tuning changes. Just a little individual cylinder trim based on "historical" tuning. Haven't pulled the plugs yet to see individual cylinder burn. Seems like it needs to have a lot more timing pulled too from what it was. Very knock prone right now. Needed to bring the W/M on earlier as well. That seemed to help with the detonation. Still getting too much fuel on the top end (AFR is way rich and getting rich misfiring) so I think the new injectors need to be dialed back significantly on the .ms increase under load. I'm at +7.6ms max added right now above 13 PSI. I'll work on that next. So far with the stock fuel system and a BAP I'm indicating a solid 60 dropping to 55 at redline. Boost PSI is somewhere around 15 PSI but its jumping all over the place above 4500RPM when I'm getting misfiring. Might need to address some new plugs to. Using the 1 step colder NGKs right now gapped at .028-030. All in all the thing really screams. I can tell the tuning is really messing with it right now and I need to get that resolved. Nonetheless, sounds like a straight-cut gear transmission driving around. Pretty cool.
vpower01
Viper Owner
Nice!!! if you get a chance to put up a sound clip when you get it tuned a bit more that would be sweet!
KenH
Enthusiast
Get this thing tuned and on the dyno. You have a chance to hold the record for a boost only Roe system, at least for a short while. I get the feeling that if this proves successful you are going to find a lot of people following your lead.
I get the feeling that if this proves successful you are going to find a lot of people following your lead.Dont mess around with detonation! I would take that 10lb off until you get that thing tuned in. I wouldnt risk running high boost without a proper tune. Put the 5lb pulley on and get everything dialed in and then go to the smaller pulleys. Once you get the tune with the 5lb pulley, the tune with the smaller pulley will just be a matter of adding fuel and decreasing timing.
You changed a lot of variables at once. If you still have the stock pump I would worry about you running out of fuel. Also, I would disable the w/m system with the 5lb pulley. This will give you the opportunity to dial in the fuel system.
This build makes me excited about the roe again. I wish they had a system that was even larger that fit under the hood. I would be all over it. I hope that you make 15% more power vs the 2.4l blower. My car would have made 835rwhp without Water/Methanol if it increased 15%. My Roe car would have been trapping in the mid 150's. If that was the case the turbo car would have never been purchased.
Keep us posted! This is very exciting!
You changed a lot of variables at once. If you still have the stock pump I would worry about you running out of fuel. Also, I would disable the w/m system with the 5lb pulley. This will give you the opportunity to dial in the fuel system.
This build makes me excited about the roe again. I wish they had a system that was even larger that fit under the hood. I would be all over it. I hope that you make 15% more power vs the 2.4l blower. My car would have made 835rwhp without Water/Methanol if it increased 15%. My Roe car would have been trapping in the mid 150's. If that was the case the turbo car would have never been purchased.
Keep us posted! This is very exciting!
EllowViper
Enthusiast
Utah...I'm living the nightnare you've described. Tuning is kicking me a$$ right now. Cold start was terrible so I pulled the plugs and #8 & #10 were really sooty and another Bank 2 plug was wet/foulded. No surprise on #8 & #10. I was setting a CEL for too rich Bank 2 as well. Multiple misfire CELS just for good measure as well. Those plugs had probably 7K miles and were the one step colder NGKs. Did a bunch of searching for other plug options and installed a set of the Autolite 5224 gapped .032 just out of curiosity. Basically the stock extended reach plug for the iron V10 truck engine which according to the article is a "three step colder" plug from the aluminum V10 RC12---. Worked with the VEC on some normal transitional tuning and timing\W/M adjustments. I was able to get the STFT and LTFT within 1-2% so that was good and street driving/transition was really smooth. I'm finding that I'm really going through the fuel and have trimmed alot of fuel out of the tune (as well as W/M...doesn't seem to like as much W/M as before...seems to be choking it out). Base offset is 39% and my fuel load adjustments have decreased considerably. I guess those bigger 60LB Siemens injectors are taking more time to work with than I expected...coupled with the BAP adding more variables as you indicate. AFR doesn't seem to indicate an issue at cruise. However and I'm not sure what's happening...maybe too cold of a plug or blowing out the spark...but I'm dropping cylinders after doing WOT runups. Seems to foul-out after I let off the gas. Frustrating since the tune seems really close to where it needs to be and I want to work the final adjustments to it. Sometimes it clears up and runs on all 10 and other times it keeps missing. Just now I was doing a WOT runup to redline (really comes on strong by the way and the timing seems close to where it needs to be) and when I let off and let the engine recover, it developed the misfire again (would not clear itself this time) and I putted on home with misfire CELS on 1,2,3,4,5,10. WOW. Tomorrow after the engine is cool I'll pull all the plugs and see what's going on. I picked up some Autolite 3923s as well which are the one step colder replacements. I really want some RC10ECCs but we all know the story on those. RC12ECCs might be too hot but might need to try those just to see if it prevents the recurring fouling/misfiring issue I'm having. Oh...when I was accellerating from a stop when it was misfiring, I made the mistake of accellerating a bit too vigourously and did I get a backfire through the manifold!! THought I blew the blower right off!!! Scared the pi$$ out of me...
I am indicating 15PSI on the gauge...but until I can get this misfiring issue worked out I can't really dial it in and am driving on eggshells. Hopefully those Siemens injectors aren't hosed up. Were suppose to be new.
More tomorrow after I do some more forensics.
I am indicating 15PSI on the gauge...but until I can get this misfiring issue worked out I can't really dial it in and am driving on eggshells. Hopefully those Siemens injectors aren't hosed up. Were suppose to be new.
More tomorrow after I do some more forensics.
KenH
Enthusiast
I like Utah's idea to drop to a lower PSI pulley while you sort the kinks out. I'd also be tempted to pull the Siemens injectors out and replace with your old ones to reduce the variables until you got the car stable with the new blower, then start adding things back in one at a time and putting the smaller pulley back in as the last step.
BTW, were the old injectors high impedence as well? Wondering if you might have the loadbox on the injector circuit that could be causing the fueling problems.
What are you doing on the timing?
Assuming you have a WBO installed, what's your A/F at WOT? If not, I would get one before I did any more WOT testing.
Can you post a VEC logfile?
BTW, were the old injectors high impedence as well? Wondering if you might have the loadbox on the injector circuit that could be causing the fueling problems.
What are you doing on the timing?
Assuming you have a WBO installed, what's your A/F at WOT? If not, I would get one before I did any more WOT testing.
Can you post a VEC logfile?
EllowViper
Enthusiast
Good suggestions by all but the old Bosches are gone. THe Seimens are the high impedance EV1 just like the Green Tops. I am using my Innovate LC-1 Wide Band and I'm at 11.x AFR. No issues there. AFR comes right in when I stab it. Usually hovering around 13.8-14.5 at cruise. My ONLY issue was the intermittant misfire. Pulled the 5224 plugs and nothing out of the ordinary..so I haven't (yet) hurt anything. I'd post pics of all 10 but my wife is hogging the computer on FARMVILLE...don't go there.
In looking at the plugs, they are running really cold. They are all identical excpet for #8 whick was a little darker (just slightly). THe ground strap hasn't changed color at all but yet they aren't all sooty either. Just looks sort of cold and lean/dry (if that makes any sense). Checked my AB wires and they seem to be connecting to the plugs just fine. I did remove the heat guards from around the plugs just now so ABs plug wires can snap on more fully. I installed the Autolite 3923's gapped to .030 and it fired right up. Its raining like crazy so I can't drive it however. Seems to idle OK but peddling the throttle it is really stumbling. I have a pending "System Rich" CEL on my ODBII data stream and my LTFT and STFTs are right at +/- 3%. Here are my basic VEC parameters. Plugs maybe still a bit too cold since the 3923s are atcually 2 step colder from stock (plus not extended nose). Plum thanks for the PM...
In looking at the plugs, they are running really cold. They are all identical excpet for #8 whick was a little darker (just slightly). THe ground strap hasn't changed color at all but yet they aren't all sooty either. Just looks sort of cold and lean/dry (if that makes any sense). Checked my AB wires and they seem to be connecting to the plugs just fine. I did remove the heat guards from around the plugs just now so ABs plug wires can snap on more fully. I installed the Autolite 3923's gapped to .030 and it fired right up. Its raining like crazy so I can't drive it however. Seems to idle OK but peddling the throttle it is really stumbling. I have a pending "System Rich" CEL on my ODBII data stream and my LTFT and STFTs are right at +/- 3%. Here are my basic VEC parameters. Plugs maybe still a bit too cold since the 3923s are atcually 2 step colder from stock (plus not extended nose). Plum thanks for the PM...
Attachments
Russ M
Enthusiast
Free do it yourself tuning session.. check
No idea what the hell I am doing.. check
Step up the boost while detonating. check
Blame it on the injectors. check
Waiting to hurt something.. check
Building a new motor.. Priceless
No idea what the hell I am doing.. check
Step up the boost while detonating. check
Blame it on the injectors. check
Waiting to hurt something.. check
Building a new motor.. Priceless
KNG SNKE
Enthusiast
Pretty sure you haven't put any money into this project. check
Pretty sure Ellow could give a F less what you think. check
Pretty sure your opinion means nothing. check
You realizing your opinion means nothing. Priceless.
KenH
Enthusiast
Russ, you can either help or get off the thread.
Eric, I'd try a warmer plug (1 step cooler than stock) and focus on getting your drivability good before doing any more WOT runs. In fact, if you stay out of the boost, you can put in stock plugs to see if that takes care of the loading problem and then you know what you are dealing with.
Before you do any more WOT runs, I'd make the setup a littler safer. Pull some timing on the upper RPM range and either add race gas or a good octane booster. You need to get to the point that detonation is not an issue and then you can start to tune for power.
Eric, I'd try a warmer plug (1 step cooler than stock) and focus on getting your drivability good before doing any more WOT runs. In fact, if you stay out of the boost, you can put in stock plugs to see if that takes care of the loading problem and then you know what you are dealing with.
Before you do any more WOT runs, I'd make the setup a littler safer. Pull some timing on the upper RPM range and either add race gas or a good octane booster. You need to get to the point that detonation is not an issue and then you can start to tune for power.
Russ M
Enthusiast
What you guys dont seem to understand is that YOU are not helping, if you were trying to help the first thing you would tell him is to stop what he is doing.
You cant practice/experiment/learn/diagnose/tune when you are not 100% sure you know what you are doing. In the end the poor guy is going to learn the hard way that it would have been much cheaper to pay someone that does know how to diagnose/tune without causing massive failure to the motor.
There is a reason why good tuners are hard to find, and its not from a lack of people trying.
You cant practice/experiment/learn/diagnose/tune when you are not 100% sure you know what you are doing. In the end the poor guy is going to learn the hard way that it would have been much cheaper to pay someone that does know how to diagnose/tune without causing massive failure to the motor.
There is a reason why good tuners are hard to find, and its not from a lack of people trying.
EllowViper
Enthusiast
Almost getting like the "other"site...LOL. Yea...just dump it on some third party tuner, throw some $$$ at it & walk away..as if anyone has done a ROE like this before. I need to know how and why something works the way it does...not just turn the key and go. Ken, I will bump my octane to 100 for my next tuning session (just to be safe) and go back to some new RC12ECC if these 3923s do not resolve anything. Kenne Bell loves those NGKs in supercharged 5.9s. Atleast plugs are cheap. I also have a line on (10) RC10ECCs..but will withold the nuclear option for now. This will get figured out. As a coincidence, my 5.9 Dakota started doing the identical thing yesterday. It turned out to be an ignition issue. Also, my VEC has been acting up (W/M function not working after idling for an extended period..might get too hot or something). Have to shut the car off and restart and then it comes back. So maybe I need to send that in for a refresh. WHo knows but I'll get it figured out. Thanks to the many pushing me on regarding this project. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
EllowViper
Enthusiast
Oh just to be clear since I don't have a clue as to what I'm doing....BS in Automotive Engineering, lab instructor in University automotive lab & metals lab. Member University Vehicle Performance Team, SAE certified (well before the ASE credentials came out for the masses). OMC/Polaris tech...and a MSM in an unrelated vocation...AKA CLUELESS beyond belief.
BOTTLEFED
Enthusiast
Good job Eric. We are helping much more than russm ever will. You're right, he belongs over on the alley - its not running right? throw all the money (you don't have) at it before it blows!
That's the answer they give because they have no idea how to help so they feel smart by giving you advice on who to take it to. As I've said before, its easy to spend other peoples' money for them.
I know more about my car and how it runs than any pro tuner will ever know about it. I like to be the one that will blow it up, not some tuner that will just say, "Well, it wasn't running right and I told you to pay me more $$, and now its blown up. Not my fault..."
You have to learn some how. But I think you are doing just fine. There is apparently no damage to the motor, so just start over, and continue slowly. You may have a bad VEC. A friend recently had a very similar problem of misfiring on random cylinders and he had to send the controller back to Sean and have him fix it. It might be a good time to have it upgraded anyway.
I am sorry to sound like a broken record. Please put the larger pulley on and turn off W/M. Your misfires could be caused by your w/m. Once you can get the tune close with the new injectors and blower you will easily be able to add the w/m and smaller pulley. If you are spraying too much w/m vs gasoline you are going to have a problem. The max amount of w/m you should spray vs gasoline is 25% but I would not get close to that number if you can help it. If you put in straight methanol you would be fine but it is the water that can cause the problem. THe water doesnt compress so it virtually increases the overall compression.
Have you tried to call sean? He would probably be willing to help.
Great JOB! Way to be a pioneer..keep us posted on your progress.
Have you tried to call sean? He would probably be willing to help.
Great JOB! Way to be a pioneer..keep us posted on your progress.
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HollywoodGTS
Enthusiast
- Joined
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Eric, just curious what did your old setup dyno at?
EllowViper
Enthusiast
Hollywood...never did get to the dyno with the old set-up. My bad...and many reasons for that. But Sean tells me he's going to perform extensive before/after dyno runs to demonstrate any performance gains before he offers the 2.8 upgrade. I'll leave that to his able hands. Oh and while on that note, Sean did warn me about going it alone on this project and recommended I wait until he got it all sorted out...new manifold, SCT tune, 2.8 upgrade, and other related items. That was last fall when Kenne Bell indicated they would not sell me a 2.8 outright. Given I buttered up the Kenne Bell guys to the point of selling me a 2.8, I opted to blaze this current trail anyways knowing the slippery slope I would be on.
So from a truly empherical standpoint, we will never know my before vs. after numbers for sure!! Nonetheless, given the numbers of similar 10 lb set-ups out there, once this gets sorted out and up on the dyno, the numbers should be self evident regardless. I may let Sean or M2 dyno it since I'm due for a "social" visit anyways. Really busy the next few days so not sure when I can wrench on it again. Hold your wallet tight and stay tuned. I'll try and hold further drama to a minimum and just post about progress.
So from a truly empherical standpoint, we will never know my before vs. after numbers for sure!! Nonetheless, given the numbers of similar 10 lb set-ups out there, once this gets sorted out and up on the dyno, the numbers should be self evident regardless. I may let Sean or M2 dyno it since I'm due for a "social" visit anyways. Really busy the next few days so not sure when I can wrench on it again. Hold your wallet tight and stay tuned. I'll try and hold further drama to a minimum and just post about progress.
Joseph Dell
Enthusiast
As crazy as it sounds for new injectors, get them flowed/cleaned. I've seen many a new injector not flow properly. At 5psi you can manage this. At 15... it is a different story. I've seen it all too many times.
Good luck! Seems like a very cool project. I hope you can get the gremlins out of it soon!
J
Good luck! Seems like a very cool project. I hope you can get the gremlins out of it soon!
J
FastZilla
Enthusiast
I can't believe you even attempt your own oil changes
J/K - I'm with you Ellow! Keep it up - I want to DIY this same thing
Thanks for blazing the trail
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VIPER BAZ UK
Enthusiast
Keep up the good work.....
SCT rather than VEC-3 or AEM should be good.....
SCT rather than VEC-3 or AEM should be good.....
Martin
Enthusiast
Definitely keep at the tuning, and try to keep it from getting into detonation at all cost I went through hundreds of hours doing what you're doing, running around town with my laptop plugged into my OBDII port to gather data, and it ended up OK in the end. It is time consuming, and you've got to be pretty passionate about it or it's easy to get burned out on the process.
What does your boost curve vs. RPM look like? Do you have a bypass valve installed? This is just one person's point of reference, but I've found that these Autorotor compressors can be downright scary unless you have a bypass valve to dump boost at low load factors. I have a big compressor on a little 4.7L V8, and it's tuned so that I get full boost by about 1750 RPM under load, but it will dump most of the boost until the load factor gets up above .6 or so. Otherwise your PCM goes crazy trying to deal with correcting the A/F ratio - and these speed density systems aren't really well suited for boosted applications (I did a mass airflow conversion)...
My goal in going with a big compressor wasn't so much to wring out the maximum amount of boost - it was to get the optimal amount of boost without having to work the compressor too hard. For a 5L low-revving engine, for example, you can get by with a 1.8L compressor and get a healthy 7psi of boost at 5500 RPM. The compressor has to work pretty hard for that boost, though, and the efficiency starts to drop off pretty quick. So, going with a bigger compressor will let you get to that boost quicker and with less heat generation, and less heat will allow you to run more advanced timing, and get a bit more power.
If you're getting up into the 15psi range, you are getting into very dangerous territory. Just one bit of detonation in that range and you can kiss your ring lands goodbye. You might not even know they're starting to go because they can fracture non-catastrophically and the engine will still seem to be running OK until all of a sudden you get weird misfires and find a few oily plugs. So please be careful...
Do you have a 5psi pulley around that you can start your tunes with? If it were me, I'd start with that, get comfortable that nothing else is screwed up (bad injectors, flaky fuel pump, software glitch in the engine controller, etc.) and move up slowly from there.
You sound like you have a similar auto engineering background to me, so I'm sure you know it's best to sneak up on a problem and control the variables (one by one) than to try to go right to the hairy edge of things and have to deal with a hundred different variables interacting with each other all at once. That can get overwhelming fast, and when you get overwhelmed, you get frustrated. When you get frustrated, you make mistakes. When you make mistakes, you have to pull out the credit card...
I went through hundreds of hours doing what you're doing, running around town with my laptop plugged into my OBDII port to gather data, and it ended up OK in the end. It is time consuming, and you've got to be pretty passionate about it or it's easy to get burned out on the process. What does your boost curve vs. RPM look like? Do you have a bypass valve installed? This is just one person's point of reference, but I've found that these Autorotor compressors can be downright scary unless you have a bypass valve to dump boost at low load factors. I have a big compressor on a little 4.7L V8, and it's tuned so that I get full boost by about 1750 RPM under load, but it will dump most of the boost until the load factor gets up above .6 or so. Otherwise your PCM goes crazy trying to deal with correcting the A/F ratio - and these speed density systems aren't really well suited for boosted applications (I did a mass airflow conversion)...
My goal in going with a big compressor wasn't so much to wring out the maximum amount of boost - it was to get the optimal amount of boost without having to work the compressor too hard. For a 5L low-revving engine, for example, you can get by with a 1.8L compressor and get a healthy 7psi of boost at 5500 RPM. The compressor has to work pretty hard for that boost, though, and the efficiency starts to drop off pretty quick. So, going with a bigger compressor will let you get to that boost quicker and with less heat generation, and less heat will allow you to run more advanced timing, and get a bit more power.
If you're getting up into the 15psi range, you are getting into very dangerous territory. Just one bit of detonation in that range and you can kiss your ring lands goodbye. You might not even know they're starting to go because they can fracture non-catastrophically and the engine will still seem to be running OK until all of a sudden you get weird misfires and find a few oily plugs. So please be careful...
Do you have a 5psi pulley around that you can start your tunes with? If it were me, I'd start with that, get comfortable that nothing else is screwed up (bad injectors, flaky fuel pump, software glitch in the engine controller, etc.) and move up slowly from there.
You sound like you have a similar auto engineering background to me, so I'm sure you know it's best to sneak up on a problem and control the variables (one by one) than to try to go right to the hairy edge of things and have to deal with a hundred different variables interacting with each other all at once. That can get overwhelming fast, and when you get overwhelmed, you get frustrated. When you get frustrated, you make mistakes. When you make mistakes, you have to pull out the credit card...
pteam
Viper Owner
Its still not bad advice to get it profesionally tuned by one of the top guys.
EFI-1
Viper Owner
Wow excellent endeavor! Nice job on the pics and updates brutha. Subscribed.
EllowViper
Enthusiast
"Hi Five" to Martin! NOT a lot of fun at this point with wires and laptops in the cockpit. It does run a bypass valve by the way. Still misfiring all the time at this point. Good spark on all 10. Plugs are dry and AFR indicates pretty lean putting around town. THinking injector or two clogged. Contacted Tony and he can service the injectors. Need to rule out an injector issue at this point. Stethescope indicates they are all working. One thing I have never dove into are servicing injectors. It would be good to be able to do a simple DIY bench cleaning..however I think I'll leave that to Tony.
Daddy Long Stroke
Enthusiast
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I thinks it's great that you tackled the 2.8 swap and modifications by yourself. Kudos! Great information that a LOT of people are interested in.....
However, man you are playing with fire here, and walking on the edge of a very expensive mistake!
For the love of god man, get that thing to a professional tuner on a dyno!!!!
However, man you are playing with fire here, and walking on the edge of a very expensive mistake!
For the love of god man, get that thing to a professional tuner on a dyno!!!!
